Archive for the ‘New York Moments’ Category

¡Pobrecito!

May 3, 2008

Our cat hurtled himself off the window ledge yesterday. He took a nose-dive into the empty air and crash landed in the ally, three flights below. Giles, the furry comet.

Typically, the ally is home to a ’round-the-clock soiree, where Dominican gentlemen congregate to smoke pot, drink El Presidente, and listen the same mariachi song over and over. Had it been warmer, the ally revelers would’ve had some spice added to their party routine, something new to tell to the wives back at home:

A howling cat falling headlong from the heavens. A white boy leaning from a window ledge above, eyes wide with despair, his voice a shot in the dark: “Giles!”

Had it been warmer, our cat’s limp body would’ve been encircled by the ally revelers once it hit the pavement. The mariachi song would draw to a close; no one would dare hit repeat. Quiet, sensitive Manuel would be the first to crouch down and run calloused hand over furry flank. Never to be outdone, Victor would mournfully remove his Mets cap, turn his face to the sky and cry: “¡Pobrecito!”

Seconds later, Shaun would pound the ally gate with both fists. Jose would break from the group to let him in. Smelling the familiar scent of his owner, life would stir back into the cat’s body. His eyelids would flutter, a pathetic meow would issue from his mouth. The cat would move himself to all fours, slow but steady, resurrected.

The ally revelers would cheer and offer Shaun a beer, a hit, a mariachi song. “No,” he’d say, “thank you. I’d better get this little guy home.”

But it was unseasonably cold yesterday. A dirty clamminess clung to the air like a strand of greasy hair. There were no ally revelers. There was no soiree. There was only a cat sprawled on pavement, a locked ally door, and a frantic Shaun banging on it, unable to get in.

Shaun called the super, who did not answer. He called the building owner, who promised he might swing by to help, but not until Monday. In pigeon-Spanish, Shaun asked neighbors if they knew anyone in the building with a key. After all, someone must have one, seeing as how our ally is party-central. But as white people, as non-Dominican people, as non-Orthodox Jews, as people for whom English is their first language, whose parents were born in this country: we are not to be trusted.

We don’t know what happens here, how things work. We don’t know why there are at least two plains-clothes arrests every night on our block. We don’t know why every corner has a candle-lit memorial site to a slain teenager, where friends leave poetry and bags of the victims favorite snacks. We don’t know the characters in the murals. We only know that mail trucks and city services won’t come above 148th street, where most maps of Manhattan inexplicably end. We live on 186th.

We are outsiders here. We are constantly aware of our skin, our language, our dress, our walk, our music, our shows, our water bottles, our hair, our inability to access the ally where our cat’s injured body is sprawled: this is how the Dominicans and the Orthodox Jews in this neighborhood must feel if they go anywhere outside of it. We can only ever be observers in this place. We are lingering guests, trying to be as unobtrusive as possible.

After running around the building like mad, someone must have taken pity on Shaun and unlocked the ally door for him. There, he found our cat, face bloodied and swollen. But alive. The vet office took him in early this morning for cat x-rays and mending.

I was away, working yet another double-job, 14-hour Friday when this all happened. I came home to find an unravelled husband, a cat sipping shallow breaths, and a feeling that I was missing my life, letting down everyone I loved, and selling small chunks of myself just to keep living in a city I’ve grown to hate.

Many people say that pets and their owners mirror each-other. While neither Shaun nor I are as cute as Giles, we do share personality traits with him. Giles is one of the friendliest cats I’ve ever met. He rushes, indiscriminately, to anyone who enters our home—-family, friends, repairmen—-for cuddles, conversation, and play. Giles is also a gusty, brave cat. He loves racing out the door, tearing into the unknown, blindly trusting that it will be nothing more than a fun lark. And last night, rushing headlong onto the street, Giles hadn’t the faintest idea that NYC would knock the wind out of him and leave him wondering why he ever thought it wise to do such a foolish, painful thing.

I Poop New York

March 30, 2008

There is nothing more lonesome than eating a packet of mini cheese Ritz for dinner. But by 11 pm—-after a 9-6 in the office, followed by a shift at my second job selling books at author events—-I’m starved. I buy the crackers from the platform vendor while waiting for my train home. I cram the greasy disks into my mouth with germy subway hands. I am exhausted. I am beyond caring. Chewing, I watch the rats scurry in the tracks below.

My ride is exactly 1-hour long and at an hour where more normal people than not are tucked away in bed. Sometimes I can’t resist the compulsion to buy something to eat before I am home. Oftentimes my journey takes such an unappetizing twist that eating after it is out of the question.

For example, a man shit before my very eyes a few weeks ago. We were on the subway. It was late. Across the aisle from me, the man was badgering a woman for money. When she refused to give him anything, his tirade began.

He paced up and down the car, muttering: “I’ll show you! I’ll show you!”

After a time, the man stopped directly in front of the woman, popped a squat, and pushed. By some grace of God, he did not bother to remove his pants.

It’s rare that I ever see what a human face looks like whilst a shit is in progress. I don’t know many infants and my bathroom mirror is above my sink, not across from my toilet.

When defecating, the human brow furrows, then eases. The mouth puckers, then smiles. The smile is not big nor toothy, but a relaxed expression. It is a self satisfied grin that simply says: I pooped.

When his crap was fully expelled, the man exhaled as if in a soda commercial, although I doubt the steaming load in his pants was carbonated or refreshing. I do not have to tell you how bad this smelled.

After, the man sat down between us on the subway floor, laughing. The woman and I changed cars at the next stop, leaving him to fester—-the only pair of pants he owned filled to the brim with shit.

The Hibernating Blog Awakens

March 2, 2008

This winter has been rife with change. In December, I was offered a job at a Creative Writing school in the city. The job is fair, just, and tolerable. This is more than can be said for the dull office temp jobs that I took out of sheer desperation when we first got back to the country (not to mention that insane producer job that went tits up within weeks!). I am more than happy to work at the Creative Writing school until our time in NYC is up.

As for Shaun, he’s been busy tending to his exploding freelance career and working at a well-suited day job in academic publishing. He’s also been diligently networking in an effort to pair his fiction with an agent. He travels for work a lot; a publication recently sent him to San Francisco to cover a convention. He is in DC to lobby for first amendment rights for work this week. It’s a wonder to me that he finds time to write. But he does, every weekend. Such discipline!

Also this winter, our apartment has transformed from a storage space of dusty boxes to a furnished, cozy refuge from the outside world. I’ve made a small handful of friends and re-connected with people from the past who’ve also wound up here in the city. I’m taking writers’ workshop again, dusting off some old works of short fiction that I’d been neglecting. We’ve discovered a favorite neighborhood restaurant. I’ve established a running route. I make bi-weekly treks to the library. We’ve been busy getting into a groove, something that is emotionally difficult to do in a city that we don’t see ourselves living in for very long (another story for another time). But we’ve been doing it. And there have been more than a few dazzling moments. I just haven’t had the time to blog about them.

One warm weekend in January, Shaun and I wondered Central Park for hours. That was a beautiful day.

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Over President’s Day weekend in February, our Baltimore friends Beth and Jay came for a visit.

We dressed up the cat…

…and walked around the city.

We also took the free ferry to Stanton Island. There, you can glimpse the Brooklyn Bridge and the Statue of liberty. We were going to walk the Brooklyn Bridge, but we ran out of time and nice weather. Next time!

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Staten Island has a totally and completely different feel than Manhattan, Brooklyn, or Queens. It feels like a small, separate city, nearly suburban. A bit shabby, but quiet. We walked around for a bit, I took a few snaps, and then we were back on the ferry. I discovered more than a few cool things to check out on Staten for the next time I go, including a huge park with hiking trails, a museum of Tibetan art, and an authentic Chinese garden. Also, next time, I want to eat at this restaurant with killer bird murals painted all over it:

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More pictures from Staten:

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The Manhattan skyline on the ferry back home:

Beth, Jay, Shaun, and I strolled through the city some more the following day, Sunday, February 17th. The morning started in Times Square and meandered uptown, through Central Park, to spend an afternoon at The Met.

Usually, Times Square makes me want to seizure. The belly rumble of the subway underfoot underscores the shill noise of buses breaking, taxis honking, street vendors hawking, pop music blaring, and a million different cell phone conversations at once. There’s beggars, TV crews, tourists, hot dog vendors, pick pockets, models. The working poor and the unemployed rich. We are all bodies in motion here. From a distance, we are one lump human sum, streaming together down sidewalks and cross streets. The appearance of cooperation soon disintegrates: once you’re in the throes of it, Midtown is a mosh pit. We clutch our belongings tight and elbow past each other with gritted teeth. We weave through crowds. We cut each-other off with our wheely suitcases. We shed hot cigarette ash on one another’s thighs. We get hit by cars and bikes in our desire to get where we’re going and get there first. We struggle against millions of neon lights screaming millions of meaningless advertisements. In Times Square, capitalism reaches a frenzied pitch. It is usually a nauseating showcase of humans at their worst.

Still though, when visiting NYC, a walk through Times Square is a must. Unlike many tourist activities, you do not simply sight-see in Times Square. You have a visceral experience. We could never deprive Beth or Jay of this.

However, to my complete surprise, the noise of the square had purpose that morning: to celebrate Kosavo’s independence from Serbia. It was really beautiful to stumble upon something like this. For the first time, the square was focused and friendly. Crowds cheered and wrapped themselves in flags. An impromptu parade unfolded in front of our eyes – immigrants drove through the square, hanging out of their car windows, honking their horns, cheering, jubilant. For the first time since I arrived in New York, the humans around me were not stepping over each other; they were sharing something positive. The power of it overwhelmed the hustle and flow of commerce in the square. No flashing advertisement or aggressive promoter could compete with the force of those happy humans. I’m glad our friends got to see NYC at its triumphant best.

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Have you ever been to Times Square? What was your reaction to it?

Travel Tip: To cleanse your pallet after any Times Square rendezvous, I recommend a visit to one of the city’s nearby vest-pocket parks: The Plaza on 6th Avenue, between 48th and 49th Streets. There, a tall pebbly waterfall runs the width of a lot; a short glass tunnel slices through the center. Walking through the cool tunnel completely refreshes the senses. Beneath it, the sounds of the city disappear. All you can hear is cascading water, all you can see is its bubbling surf raining down atop you. As far as I can tell, though, this park isn’t open on the weekend, so plan your post-Times Square lobotomy accordingly.

New York Moments, vol 1

October 28, 2007

Farmers Market at Union Square
Wednesday, October 10, 1pm

On my way home from a business meeting, I stumble onto the Farmers Market at Union Square; it’s leafy, green, and growing between traffic and sky scrapers. I wander aimlessly from stall to stall. There’s purple sprouting cauliflower, thick slices of pumpkin, rows of adorable baby bok choy. I munch a sample cube of pumpernickel from a baker’s stand; I buy a round of sourdough. Organic beef vendors barbecue thick cuts of steak; the most primitive part of my brain instructs me to salivate. I am happy here, I’m at peace.

Subway (1-train)
Thursday, October 11, 10 am

See that woman outside, waiting on the platform? The one in her 40’s wearing a gray, conservative skirt suit and holding the biggest bunch of sunflowers you’ve ever seen. What is an executive-type like her doing out mid-day, holding a giant bunch of flowers no less? She is happy, though. She’s used to hiding it, but today her smile cannot be contained. She’s in love. Someone’s been calling her “Sunshine.”

A few stops up the line, by Columbia University, a couple dressed in tight black turtlenecks, black pants, and combat boots stomps on the train and proceeds to make out. They cannot keep their hands off each other. They’re pawing and frenching and sighing the afternoon away; they stroke each other’s faces and look deeply into each other’s eyes. It’s surprising to see such unbridled tenderness and heat from people dressed like Dieter from that SNL skit, Sprockets. “Touch my monkey. Now we dance!” Remember that skit? That was a good one…

St. Nicholas Avenue & 154th
Monday, October 15

I’m off to lunch with the studio head I’ve been freelancing for. I navigate the cluttered sidewalks of my neighborhood, passing fold out tables selling heaps of t-shirts and carts laden with cut mangoes, stuffed tortillas, and deep fried churros. A sidewalk grocer’s pyramid of onions cascades down in front of me; a mom laden with kids and bags and an uncooperative stroller has knocked it over. I skip over the mess as the mom and grocer argue in Spanish. Her youngest starts to cry.

And then I pass this man in a purple plaid three-piece suit with shiny gold buttons. He’s old – in his 80’s – and his face is hardwired to offer the world a gooey, incapacitated smile. The purple plaid suited man is dancing to Cuban horn music that’s blasting from a nearby bodega. He swivels and sways like a dash board Hawaiian doll, his right arm raised at a 90 degree angle, his left placed delicately on his belly.

The best part is, he was still there, doing the exact same thing, when I came home that evening. It was a glitch in the Matrix, a stumble into a David Lynch daydream.

57th Street, between 8th and 9th
Tuesday, October 16, 10.25 am

I’m late. I’ve called the studio head I freelance for and she’s cool with it but I’m not. I hate being late. Once, in my first real interview for my first college internship, when asked for three qualities that describe myself, to my embarrassment, I blurted out: “punctual.” But my train had a broken door. Everybody had to get off and wait for another train, which arrived a whopping 25 minutes late. And then I got lost trying to find my bosses mother’s pad on the Upper East Side. That’s where we were meeting. Why? Don’t ask questions; just say, “Sure Thing!” Have a Can Do Attitude. Be a Yes Person. Find this frackin’ place and move on.

Emerging from the bowels of the subway, I got a little turned around. I needed to walk to another subway to get across town, but I neglected to check my map, busy remembering the movie Cruel Intentions, when Sarah Michelle Gellar seethes, “I’m the Marsha fucking Bradey of the Upper East Side and sometimes even I want to kill myself.” I am excited to be going to the Upper East so that I can pretend that I’m in the movie.

Before I notice that I’m going the wrong way, I pass something that makes being late worth while: a spa whose services include naps. That’s right: 40 minutes of shut eye is gonna cost you $24 in the city that never sleeps. I belong in a culture with siestas; I live in one where people will pay for a bit of rest. As nice as this spa sounds, I think I’ll stick to snoozing in the park.

Park Avenue & 72nd
Thursday, October 25, 5.15 pm

I’m walking to the A-train from the Whitney Museum of American Art, taking a long, rambling route in order to see more of the city. And see more of the city I did. As I’m crossing 72nd street, I spy a petite Frenchmen walking a brood of about 15 bouncy-haired little dogs on a designer leash that resembled a cat o’ nine tails. Each dog had a fluffy ponytail atop its head, fastened with a fuzzy pink bow. Best of all, the petite Frenchman commanded the brood to trot along as if they were one, large dog: “Together, together,” he barked, “You – get back in line!” The sea of fluff obeyed.

“You won’t believe what I’m looking at,” I told my friend Derek through my cell phone, “it is hilarious.”